Leche Flan

Method

1. Make the caramel. In a small heavy saucepan, melt the sugar over medium-low heat, swirling the pan rather than stirring, until it turns a deep amber, 6 to 8 minutes. Immediately pour it into the tin and tilt to coat the base evenly. (The traditional way is to caramelize the sugar right in the llanera, set directly on the burner and swirled by hand; a round cake tin does not balance on a burner, so this saucepan-and-pour method gets you the same result.) Set the tin aside to let the caramel harden while you make the custard.
2. Make the custard. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks just enough to break them up, without beating in air. Stir in the condensed milk until smooth, then the evaporated milk, vanilla, and salt, stirring in one direction only.
3. Pour the custard through a fine-mesh sieve into the caramel-lined tin, to catch the yolk cords and any froth. Tap the tin firmly on the counter a few times to release trapped air, and skim off any surface bubbles with a spoon. Scatter the lime zest over the top, if using.
4. Cover the tin tightly with foil, so condensation from the steamer does not drip onto the custard. Set it in a steamer basket over a wok or pot of gently simmering, not boiling, water and steam for 30 to 40 minutes, until the custard is just set with a gentle jiggle at the center and a skewer comes out clean.
5. Lift the tin out and let it cool at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes, then refrigerate, covered, for at least 4 hours and preferably overnight, until fully chilled and firm.
6. To unmold, run a thin knife around the edge, set a rimmed plate on top, and invert the two together in one motion. Lift the tin away and let the caramel run down over the custard.

Baking works just as well if steaming feels fussy. Set the covered, foil-wrapped tin in a roasting pan, add hot water halfway up its sides, and bake at 160°C for 45 to 60 minutes, until it passes the same jiggle-and-clean-skewer test.

Notes

• Keeps covered in the fridge for up to 4 days. The caramel softens into more of a sauce as it sits, which is normal and worth spooning back over each slice.
• A too-warm flan will crack or stick when you unmold it, so do not rush the chilling; overnight is the safer bet before a party.
• Straining the custard and skimming the bubbles matter more than usual here since the yolk-heavy, canned-milk mixture is thicker than a French crème caramel and holds bubbles more stubbornly.
• Freezing is not recommended; the custard’s texture turns grainy once thawed.

Sources Consulted

• Panlasang Pinoy, “Leche Flan Recipe”
• Kawaling Pinoy, “Leche Flan”
• Happy Feets and Paws, “How to Make Steamed Leche Flan”