Penjurlije (yeasted sheep's cheese pastries)

Method

1. Whisk the flour, salt and yeast together, then add the lukewarm water and olive oil. Knead by hand or with a dough hook for 8 minutes, until smooth and soft. Cover and prove in a warm spot for 45 minutes, until roughly doubled.
2. Whisk the crumbled feta, eggs, oil and pepper together until roughly combined; it should look loose and slightly curdled, not smooth.
3. Divide the dough into 4 pieces. Roll each piece out very thin, into a long, wide strip, on a floured surface.
4. Spread a quarter of the filling along one long edge of each strip, then roll up tightly into a rope.
5. Coil each rope into a loose spiral, joining the ends of the ropes to make one large spiral, or keeping them as separate smaller ones, on a lined baking sheet or round tin. Let rest, covered, for 15 minutes.
6. Brush with the beaten egg and scatter with sesame seeds, if using.
7. Bake at 190°C for 25 to 30 minutes, until deep golden brown and crisp. Rest 5 minutes before cutting.

Notes

• Roll the dough as thin as you comfortably can. Thicker dough gives a bready result closer to a filled roll; thin dough is what gives the pastry its characteristic crisp, flaky layers when coiled.
• A slightly curdled-looking filling is correct. The eggs and feta are not meant to emulsify smoothly; they set together as they bake into a soft, salty filling.
• Real sheep’s feta is worth finding for this specifically. It has a sharper, more distinct flavour than the cow’s milk feta most commonly sold, and this dish is built to show it off.
• It keeps for 2 days at room temperature, covered, and reheats well in a moderate oven; the crisp layers soften in a microwave.

Ingredient substitutions

• Sheep’s feta can be cow’s milk feta if that is all that is available, though the flavour will be milder.
• A handful of chopped fresh dill or parsley stirred into the filling is a common, good addition.
• For a spinach version, wilt 200 g of spinach, squeeze it very dry, and fold it into the cheese filling.
• Sesame seeds on top can be nigella seeds for a more traditional, slightly bitter finish.