Pineapple tarte tatin

Method

1. Peel the pineapple, cut away the eyes, and quarter it lengthwise to remove the tough core. Slice into rounds about 1.5 cm thick, or cut into thick wedges if that’s easier to arrange in the pan, then pat the pieces dry with paper towels; pineapple holds a surprising amount of juice, and any moisture left on the surface stops the caramel from taking properly.
2. Melt the butter in an ovenproof 24-26 cm skillet over medium heat, then add the brown sugar and cook, swirling the pan rather than stirring, until the mixture turns a deep amber caramel and smells toasty, about 3-5 minutes.
3. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the vanilla extract and, if using, the rum. Stand back as you add the rum, it may flame briefly if the pan is very hot; let it bubble and settle for a few seconds before continuing.
4. Arrange the pineapple rounds or wedges in the caramel in one tightly packed layer, fitting the pieces close together since they’ll shrink slightly and release juice as they cook.
5. Return the pan to medium-low heat and cook until the pineapple turns glossy and the caramel, thinned by the fruit’s juice, has thickened back up around it, 12-15 minutes. Pineapple releases a lot of liquid, so be patient here and let the caramel reduce back down to a properly syrupy consistency rather than rushing the pastry on too soon.
6. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Off the heat, lay the cold, pricked puff pastry round over the pineapple and tuck the edges down between the fruit and the side of the pan, so the fruit is fully enclosed.
7. Bake until the pastry is deep golden brown, well puffed, and crisp, 25-30 minutes.
8. Let the tart rest in the pan for 5-10 minutes, then run a thin knife around the edge to loosen it, set a plate with a lip over the pan, and invert in one confident motion.
9. Serve warm, with coconut whipped cream, vanilla ice cream, or crème fraîche.

Notes

• Best eaten warm, the same day it’s made; the pastry base softens on standing as it sits in the caramel. Leftovers keep loosely covered in the fridge for up to 2 days, gently reheat slices in a 160°C oven for about 10 minutes to recrisp the pastry, the microwave will turn it soggy.
• Pat the pineapple thoroughly dry before it goes into the caramel, and don’t rush the step where the released juice cooks back down. Pineapple is much juicier than apples or pears, and if you lay the pastry on before the caramel has properly reduced and thickened, the base turns soggy and the caramel stays thin and runny instead of clinging to the fruit.
• Ripeness matters here. A very ripe, fragrant pineapple, one that smells sweet at the base and gives slightly to pressure, gives noticeably better flavour and colour. An underripe pineapple stays tough and a little sour even after 15 minutes in the caramel and 25 minutes in the oven.

Ingredient substitutions

• All-butter puff pastry is the traditional and preferred choice here: it browns more deeply, tastes richer, and its lamination shows more distinctly than pastry made with vegetable shortening. In Germany, refrigerated Blätterteig from the chilled section is usually all-butter already and makes a reliable default. In the US and Canada, most supermarket puff pastry, including common brands like Pepperidge Farm, is made with vegetable shortening rather than butter, so look for an all-butter brand such as Dufour if you want the richer flavour.
• Homemade rough puff pastry is a reasonable middle ground if you’d like to make your own without committing to full classic lamination, which offers little visible benefit here since the pastry ends up as a flat lid rather than a laminated showpiece.
• Whatever pastry you use, it must go on cold, straight from the fridge. Room-temperature or softened pastry won’t puff properly in the oven and is more likely to shrink or slide off the fruit as it bakes.

Sources consulted

• Jamie Oliver: The World Famous Tarte Tatin