Rohrnudeln (Austrian jam-filled yeast buns)

Method

1. Whisk the flour, sugar, yeast and salt together. Add the warm milk, egg and softened butter, mix to a soft dough, then knead by hand for about 8 minutes, until smooth and elastic.
2. Cover and prove in a warm place for 45 minutes, until roughly doubled.
3. Divide the dough into 12 pieces. Flatten each into a disc, spoon a teaspoon of thick jam into the centre, and gather the edges up, pinching firmly to seal into a smooth ball with the seam underneath.
4. Arrange the buns packed tightly together, seam-down, in a buttered baking dish, touching on all sides; this is deliberate, not a mistake in sizing. Cover loosely and prove 30 minutes.
5. Bake at 180°C for 25 to 30 minutes, until the tops are deeply golden brown.
6. Brush generously with melted butter as soon as they come out of the oven. Dust with icing sugar before serving, if using. Pull the buns apart at the table rather than slicing them.

Notes

• Pack the buns tightly together on purpose. The pale, soft sides where they touch each other, against the deep golden tops, is the entire character of this bake; spaced apart, they simply become plain bread rolls.
• Use a thick jam, not a runny one. A loose jam leaks out during shaping and baking, leaving empty pockets and burnt sugar on the pan.
• Brush with butter while the buns are still hot. The residual heat melts the butter into the crust rather than letting it sit on top.
• They keep for 2 days at room temperature, wrapped, and are good gently reheated the next day.

Ingredient substitutions

• Apricot or plum jam is traditional; any thick, well-set jam works, though very sweet jams can make the finished bun cloying.
• Milk can be replaced with the same amount of water for a slightly leaner dough if needed, though milk gives a softer crumb.
• A little grated lemon zest in the dough is a good, common addition.