Spinatknödel auf Tomatenragout (spinach dumplings on tomato ragout)

Method

1. Combine the wrung-dry spinach, ricotta, eggs, semolina, cheese, salt and nutmeg in a bowl, mixing to an even, slightly firm dough. Rest 25 minutes; the semolina needs this time to absorb moisture.
2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a pot and sweat the onion, zucchini, pepper and garlic for 6 minutes, until softened.
3. Add the chopped tomatoes and oregano. Simmer 20 minutes, until the vegetables are tender but still holding their shape and the sauce has thickened. Season with salt.
4. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a bare simmer. Shape the dumpling mixture into 8 balls with wet hands and lower them in gently.
5. Poach 15 minutes, until they float and feel firm when pressed. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain briefly.
6. Spoon the tomato ragout onto plates and top with the dumplings.

Notes

• Wring the spinach completely dry; any remaining water makes the dumpling mixture too wet, and it dissolves in the poaching water instead of holding together.
• Let the mixture rest the full 25 minutes before shaping. Skipping the rest leaves the semolina still absorbing moisture as the dumplings poach, which risks them falling apart.
• Poach at a bare simmer, never a rolling boil. A hard boil knocks the dumplings apart.
• The ragout keeps for 4 days in the fridge; the dumplings are best poached fresh, though leftover dumplings reheat reasonably in a covered pan with the ragout.

Ingredient substitutions

• Ricotta can be well-drained quark for a slightly firmer, tangier dumpling.
• Zucchini and pepper can be any vegetables that hold their shape through a 20 minute simmer; aubergine works well.
• Grated hard cheese scattered over the finished dish is a good, optional finishing touch.