Apple tarte Tatin

Method

1. Peel the apples, halve them through the stem, and cut out the cores with a melon baller or small knife. Toss the halves with the lemon juice in a bowl to stop them browning while you make the caramel.
2. Choose an ovenproof, heavy-based skillet around 25 cm across (cast iron or a solid stainless steel pan that can go straight into the oven). Scatter the sugar evenly over the base and set over medium heat. Do not stir; instead, swirl the pan occasionally once the sugar starts to melt at the edges. Watch closely: the sugar goes from pale gold to deep amber to burnt within seconds once it turns, so stay at the stove for the full 6 to 9 minutes this takes.
3. As soon as the caramel is a deep amber, the colour of strong tea, take the pan off the heat. Add the cold butter pieces and the vanilla, if using, and stir them in; the caramel will bubble up vigorously and may seize into clumps for a moment, but keep stirring gently and it will smooth back out into a glossy sauce.
4. Working quickly while the caramel is still soft, arrange the apple halves cut-side up, rounded side down, packed tightly in a spiral starting from the centre. Fit them as close together as you can; they will shrink noticeably as they cook, and gaps now become large gaps later. Fill in the centre and edges with any smaller offcuts or a extra half, snugged into the gaps.
5. Return the pan to medium-low heat and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, uncovered, without moving the apples. Every few minutes, tilt the pan and spoon some of the caramel from the edges over the tops of the apples. The apples should soften slightly at the edges and the caramel should deepen further in colour; a fork should meet slight resistance, not slide through easily. Take the pan off the heat.
6. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) while the apples cook, if you haven’t already. Unroll the cold puff pastry and prick it all over with a fork. Lay it directly over the apples, then use the back of a spoon or a butter knife to tuck the edge down into the gap between the apples and the inside of the pan, all the way around, rather than leaving it resting on top. This keeps the pastry anchored during baking and gives a cleaner edge once flipped.
7. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the pastry is deep golden brown, crisp, and well-risen, with no pale or greyish patches. If the top is browning too fast before the middle sets, loosely tent it with foil for the last 5 minutes.
8. Remove the pan from the oven (the handle will be very hot; use a proper oven glove) and let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes. This matters: resting lets the caramel thicken slightly so it clings to the apples rather than flooding the plate the moment you flip. Run a thin knife around the inside edge of the pan to loosen the pastry.
9. Set a serving plate with a lip or rim (to catch the caramel) upside down over the pan. Holding both firmly together with oven gloves, flip the pan and plate over in one confident motion, then lift the pan away. If any apple pieces stick to the pan, lift them out with a palette knife and press them back into place; nobody will notice once it’s on the table.
10. Serve warm, cut into wedges, with a spoonful of crème fraîche or a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Notes

• Best eaten the day it’s made, ideally within an hour or two of baking, while the pastry is still crisp against the soft, caramelized fruit. Leftovers keep, loosely covered, in the fridge for up to 2 days, but the base will soften. Reheat gently in a 160°C oven for 10 to 15 minutes to recrisp the pastry; the microwave leaves it soggy.
• The caramel is the one place in this recipe with no margin for distraction. Once the sugar starts to colour at the edges, it moves quickly from perfect deep amber to acrid and burnt, often in under a minute. Swirl the pan to even out the colour instead of stirring with a spoon; stirring can make the sugar crystallize into a grainy, unworkable mass instead of a smooth caramel.
• Apple choice matters more than usual here. You want a firm variety that holds its shape through caramelizing and 30 minutes in a hot oven, such as Boskoop, Elstar, or Granny Smith. A soft, juicy eating apple like Gala or a very ripe dessert apple will collapse into mush and release too much water, giving you a soggy base instead of neat, glossy wedges.

Ingredient substitutions

• All-butter puff pastry is the traditional and preferred choice for this recipe: it browns more evenly, tastes richer, and has more distinct lamination than pastry made with vegetable shortening. Some purists make the classic tarte Tatin with a simple shortcrust or pâte brisée instead, which is also authentic, but puff is the more common and more forgiving choice for a home kitchen, and this recipe is written with puff in mind.
• In Germany, refrigerated Blätterteig from the chilled section (not the freezer aisle) is usually all-butter already and makes a good default choice without extra label-reading.
• In the US and Canada, most supermarket puff pastry, including Pepperidge Farm, is made with vegetable shortening rather than butter. Look specifically for an all-butter brand such as Dufour for noticeably better flavour and browning.
• Homemade rough puff pastry is a reasonable middle ground if you want to make your own without committing to full classic lamination, which offers little visible benefit here since the pastry ends up as a flat lid rather than a laminated showpiece.
• Whatever pastry you use, it must go onto the apples cold, straight from the fridge. Room-temperature or soft pastry won’t puff properly in the oven and is more likely to shrink back or slide off the apples as it bakes.

Sources consulted

• Jamie Oliver, The world famous tarte Tatin

From Christoph Mayer

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