Lemon shrimp risotto with quick shell stock

Method

1. Keep the shrimp cold while working. Peel them, reserving all shells, and remove the dark intestinal vein. Return the peeled shrimp to the refrigerator in a covered bowl. Rinse the shells briefly only if gritty.
2. Heat 10 ml olive oil in a 3 litre pot over medium-high heat. Add the shells and cook for 3 minutes, pressing them with a spoon until fragrant and pink. Add the carrot, celery, rough-chopped shallot, and garlic; cook 3 minutes more. Add the cold water, bring just to a simmer, skim once, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Do not boil hard or cook longer, which can make shell stock harsh.
3. Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a clean pot, pressing lightly but not forcing solids through. Discard the shells and vegetables. Keep about 1000 ml stock hot at a bare simmer. If you have less, top up with hot water; if more, reserve it nearby.
4. Heat 5 ml olive oil in a wide 28 cm sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the finely chopped shallot and soften for 4 minutes without colour. Add the dry Carnaroli and toast for 2 to 3 minutes until hot and translucent at the edges. Add the wine and let it evaporate completely.
5. Add hot shell stock as needed, one ladle at a time, keeping a lively simmer and adding more before the grains dry out. Stir regularly. Begin tasting after 14 minutes.
6. When the rice is about 3 minutes from ready, season the chilled shrimp lightly with salt. Push the rice aside to expose a strip of pan, add the shrimp, and cook for about 1 minute. Fold them through and cook only until opaque and just firm, usually 1 to 2 minutes more. Adding shrimp late protects their tender texture.
7. Remove from the heat while the rice is still loose. Add the cold butter, or 20 ml olive oil for the dairy-free route, plus all the lemon zest, 15 ml lemon juice, and most of the herbs. Stir and shake firmly, then rest off heat for 1 minute. Adjust salt, pepper, lemon, and hot stock.
8. Serve immediately in warm shallow bowls with the remaining herbs. The risotto should flow all’onda rather than hold a mound. The primary seafood route is intentionally made without Parmesan or any other hard cheese so the shell stock, shrimp, and lemon stay clear.

Notes

• Keep raw shrimp below 5°C and separate from ready-to-eat ingredients. Simmer the shells promptly after peeling, wash hands and tools after handling them, and never return cooked food to the raw-shrimp plate.
• Shrimp are done when opaque and just firm. A loose C-shaped curl is preferable to a tight O-shaped curl, which often signals overcooking. Do not rely on colour alone if using naturally pale shrimp.
• Lemon zest supplies aroma without thinning the rice. Begin with the measured 15 ml juice and add more only after tasting; too much juice overwhelms the sweet shell stock.
• No Parmesan or other hard cheese belongs in this primary route. Butter gives a rounded finish, while olive oil makes a clean dairy-free alternative.
• Serve immediately and do not hold warm. Cool leftovers promptly in a shallow container, refrigerate within 2 hours, and eat within 1 day. Reheat only once until piping hot; the shrimp will become firmer and the original all’onda texture will not return.

Sources consulted

• GialloZafferano: Shrimp Risotto
• GialloZafferano: Risotto with Shrimp
• GialloZafferano: Seafood Risotto

Good with

• Miso-lemon asparagus
• Quick sesame cucumber salad

From Christoph Mayer

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