Ma Lai Gao (Cantonese steamed sponge cake)

Method

1. Grease the base and sides of a 20 cm round steamer-safe cake tin with the measured oil, then line the base with a round of parchment paper. Set up your steamer: place a steaming rack or trivet in a wok or large wide pot, and pour in enough water to come about 3 cm up the sides without touching the rack. Bring the water to a rolling boil, then reduce to a steady simmer while you make the batter.
2. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and dark brown sugar together for 3 to 4 minutes, until noticeably thickened and paler than when you started; the sugar should be fully dissolved, with no gritty texture when you rub a little batter between your fingers.
3. Whisk in the evaporated milk, oil, and vanilla extract until smooth and glossy.
4. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt directly over the wet mixture. Fold in gently with a spatula, just until no dry streaks remain; do not overmix, or the cake will lose lift.
5. Let the batter rest, uncovered, at room temperature for 40 minutes. This gives the flour time to hydrate and lets the baking powder begin working before the batter meets the heat, which is what gives Ma Lai Gao its open, spongy crumb.
6. Give the batter one more gentle stir, then pour it into the prepared tin. Cover the tin loosely with foil, or set an upturned plate over it, to keep condensation off the surface, and lower it onto the rack in your steamer, above the simmering water.
7. Wrap the underside of the steamer or pot lid in a clean tea towel, tying the corners on top so they will not touch the flame, then cover the pot. The cloth absorbs condensation so it cannot drip back onto the rising cake and leave wet craters in the top. Leave a small gap, or prop the lid slightly ajar with a chopstick, so excess steam can escape rather than build up and destabilise the rise.
8. Steam over medium-high heat for 30 to 35 minutes, keeping the water at a steady simmer and topping up with more boiling water if it runs low; do not lift the lid for at least the first 20 minutes, or the sudden temperature drop can make the cake collapse. The cake is done when a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean, the top has domed and cracked into a deep caramel-brown, and the surface springs back fully when pressed.
9. Lift the tin out of the steamer and remove its cover. Let the cake cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then run a thin knife around the edge and turn it out onto a rack. Cool for a further 10 to 15 minutes before cutting into wedges; Ma Lai Gao is traditionally served slightly warm.

Notes

• Keeps well: store cooled, covered, at room temperature for up to 2 days, or refrigerate for up to 5 days. Re-steam whole or in wedges for 3 to 4 minutes to refresh before serving; a microwave works in a pinch but softens the crust.
• Freezes well wrapped tightly for up to 2 months; thaw at room temperature, then re-steam briefly.
• The colour and flavour come from the dark brown sugar and steaming, not from browning in an oven, so do not expect a crisp crust; the cake should be moist, springy, and slightly sticky right at the top.
• Evaporated milk is not the same as sweetened condensed milk; check the can. If you cannot find it, whole milk works but the crumb will be a little less rich.

Sources Consulted

• The Woks of Life, “Ma Lai Go Chinese Steamed Cake”
• Bake with Paws, “Ma Lai Kou (Steamed Sponge Cake)”
• The Hong Kong Cookery, “Chinese Ma Lai Gao Steamed Sponge Cake 馬拉糕”

From Christoph Mayer

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